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Do I have to replace the tires on a leased car?

Only if they're worn past what your lease allows — most ask for a minimum amount of tread left, and above that line you owe nothing. This is the one return charge you can see coming months ahead: check the tread with a quarter now, not at the return appointment. If you're close to the line, buy the tires yourself — you pick the brand and shop the price, instead of paying whatever the leasing company charges to do it for you.
Tires at lease-end, in plain terms
It comes down to one number, not how they lookYour lease asks for a minimum amount of tread left when you hand the car back — commonly around 1/8 of an inch, written as 4/32 if the paperwork uses that scale. Above the line you owe nothing, even if the tires look worn out. Below it, the leasing company puts new ones on and adds them to your final bill. Nobody is judging the brand or the age. It's a measurement.
Check it with a quarter, months earlyTurn a quarter upside down and slide it into the groove. If the tread reaches Washington's head you're around the usual line — plan now. If you can see the top of his head, you're already under it. Check all four, and check the inside edge of each one, because that side wears faster than the part you see when you walk up to the car. A tire shop will measure them for free if you'd rather be sure.
Buying them yourself is the whole savingsWhen the leasing company replaces a tire, they charge their price for the tire and the labor and you don't get to shop it. Do it yourself and you pick the brand, wait for a sale, and pay a tire shop or a warehouse store's rate for the same job. This is the entire reason to check early — the savings aren't in the tire, they're in having enough time to choose where you buy it.
You don't need the fancy onesThey need to be the right size and speed rating and all four should match, but you generally don't need the exact brand the car came with. You're handing the car back, so a solid mid-range tire that meets the spec does the job. Keep to the original setup if your car has staggered sizes or run-flats. And if one tire is wearing much faster than the others, get the alignment checked — otherwise you'll pay for that replacement twice.
The keep-your-cash takeaway

Every other charge at the end of a lease is a surprise you find out about on the day. Tires aren't — the tread has been telling you for months. Check it with a quarter around month nine of your last year. If you're above the line, do nothing and keep your cash. If you're under it, you have time to buy a set on your terms, which is almost always far less than the same set costs when it lands on your final bill.

See it in real numbers

The clearest way to weigh keeping your cash against the cost of owning a car is to look at a real one with the signing total, the monthly, and the price to buy it side by side. No sign-in needed.

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Do I have to replace the tires before I return a leased car?

Only if they're worn past what your lease allows. Most leases ask for a minimum amount of tread left at return — commonly around 1/8 of an inch, or 4/32 if the paperwork uses that scale — and if the tires are below it, the leasing company replaces them and bills you. If they're above it, you owe nothing, even if the tires look tired. So this isn't a question of new tires versus old; it's a question of one number, and you can check it yourself months ahead.

How do I check whether my tires will pass?

Put a quarter upside down into the tread groove. If the tread reaches Washington's head, you have roughly 4/32 of an inch left and you're around the usual line — that's your signal to plan. If you can see the top of his head, you're under it and you'll be charged. Check all four tires and check across each one, because the inside edge often wears faster than the part you can see. A tire shop will measure them for free if you'd rather not guess.

Is it cheaper to replace them myself or let the leasing company do it?

Almost always cheaper yourself, and it's usually not close. When the leasing company replaces a tire, they charge their price for the tire and the labor and add it to your final bill — you don't get to shop it. Buying the same set from a tire shop or a warehouse store means you pick the brand, wait for a sale, and pay the shop's rate. The catch is that this only works if you know early, which is the whole reason to check the tread at month nine rather than at the return appointment.

Do the new tires have to match the ones the car came with?

They have to be the right size and speed rating, and all four should match each other. Beyond that you generally don't need the exact brand the car was sold with, and you don't need the most expensive option — you're handing the car back, so a solid mid-range tire that meets the spec does the job. If your car came with a staggered setup or run-flats, keep to that spec. When in doubt, give the tire shop your car and your lease's requirement and let them match it.

What if just one tire is worn or damaged?

A single tire below the line usually gets replaced on its own, though many shops recommend doing them in pairs on the same axle so the car drives evenly. Damage is different from wear: a puncture, a cut sidewall, or a bubble is charged as damage rather than measured against the tread, and a curbed wheel is charged separately from the tire on it. If one tire is wearing much faster than the rest, get the alignment checked — otherwise you'll buy the replacement twice.

Also worth a look: what counts as wear and tear, or the check on your car before you hand it back.

Related lease questions: wear-and-tear charges, the lease-return inspection, who pays for repairs on a lease, returning your lease, whether a lease wear-protection plan is worth it, lease mileage limits or scuffed or curbed wheels on a leased car.

Ready to look at cars? Compare lease vs buy for SUVs, trucks, electric cars, minivans, sedans, hybrids or luxury cars.

National-average estimates, not a quote — see what the lease and buy figures assume. How we estimate these numbers.

Reviewed July 2026. General guidance, not a quote or financial advice.